Alpine-Style.
"There’s no place for the large siege-style expeditions. People started to see that you could climb very hard routes alpine-style with total commitment, so now climbers are climbing in very small groups." Sir Chris Bonington (nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest and the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna)
Let's be honest here. It will be miserable a lot of the time. You will wish to be somewhere else. You will be cold and tired. Your pack will still be heavy. You will be slogging a lot of the time. You will be pushing yourself and wondering why are you doing this.
But you will also be getting up to some wild places, knowing that not many had stood where you're standing. You will be in awe from the displays of colors standing above the bank of clouds, watching as the sun sets; and, from the beauty when the seemingly-on-fire milky way illuminates the night sky while the moon casts its smooth light on the glacier below, making its snow crystals shine. You will smile gratefully when the sun rises over the horizon, illuminating the mountain ranges and driving the cold away. You will relish the simplicity, the companionship, the purposefulness and the solitude. And you will be proud of yourself- for you've earned it. You are alpine climbing.
Climbing alpine-style is a great way to experience the very essence of alpine climbing. We carry what we need, and we are completely self-sufficient: free of the established stocked camps, the mules and the porters- climbing is just simply climbing. Being in a small group moving quickly through terrain increases safety and reduces environmental impact. Commitment is total and personal- there's no buying your way up or down the mountain. And we only need to climb the route once!
Let's be honest here. It will be miserable a lot of the time. You will wish to be somewhere else. You will be cold and tired. Your pack will still be heavy. You will be slogging a lot of the time. You will be pushing yourself and wondering why are you doing this.
But you will also be getting up to some wild places, knowing that not many had stood where you're standing. You will be in awe from the displays of colors standing above the bank of clouds, watching as the sun sets; and, from the beauty when the seemingly-on-fire milky way illuminates the night sky while the moon casts its smooth light on the glacier below, making its snow crystals shine. You will smile gratefully when the sun rises over the horizon, illuminating the mountain ranges and driving the cold away. You will relish the simplicity, the companionship, the purposefulness and the solitude. And you will be proud of yourself- for you've earned it. You are alpine climbing.
Climbing alpine-style is a great way to experience the very essence of alpine climbing. We carry what we need, and we are completely self-sufficient: free of the established stocked camps, the mules and the porters- climbing is just simply climbing. Being in a small group moving quickly through terrain increases safety and reduces environmental impact. Commitment is total and personal- there's no buying your way up or down the mountain. And we only need to climb the route once!
Cerro Aconcagua.
Many climbers had expressed desire to climb in this style, but were understandably frustrated. There aren't many who are able or willing to show them how to do it. The few companies having the skills and resources to do this demand thirteen thousand dollars per climber because it is classified as a private climb. Within their budget, the only option is the fully supported siege-style mountaineering, as offered by fifty other companies.
To climb Cerro Aconcagua in alpine style represents everything a normal guiding company does not want: proper acclimatization, open schedule, complicated logistics arrangement, risk mitigations, challenging on the guides and the climbers... but most importantly - not in demand… all of which translates to bad business. The siege-style approach is predictable, low risk, comparatively easier, and attracts well-to-do personalities who are more interested in taking triumphant summit photos than to learn from the process and the companionship. But we are not those companies. We are a company of alpinists. We are the only company offering guided ascent in alpine-style up Cerro Aconcagua. We believe this mountain can be climbed in classic style: small-group, minimal-gear, in good speed, and leaving minimal impact. To account for acclimatization and skills revision, we will climb some peaks en route to base camp. When everyone is positively acclimatized, we will make use of the weather window to push for the summit of Cerro Aconcagua. |
Get in touch now to find out more: admin@alpinistica.com
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Climbing Guides.
Your climbing guides are experienced alpinists and qualified guides who've been to the summit of Cerro Aconcagua multiple times. They are drawn together by their love for the mountains, their passion in climbing in alpine style and their commitment in helping to achieve your personal goals.
When they are not guiding or instructing in the mountains, they are normally faced with insurmountable tasks such as choosing whether to go rock climbing or paragliding- although sometimes they would be putting up first ascents and leading private expeditions all over the world.
Climbing alpine-style is not a job; it is a passion. Nothing gives them more pleasure than showing budding climbers this way of climbing. They know how to camp in style, joke away the hardships and motivate you toward your goals. Further, all are trained to a high-level of risk management and have the experience necessary to make the right decisions.
When they are not guiding or instructing in the mountains, they are normally faced with insurmountable tasks such as choosing whether to go rock climbing or paragliding- although sometimes they would be putting up first ascents and leading private expeditions all over the world.
Climbing alpine-style is not a job; it is a passion. Nothing gives them more pleasure than showing budding climbers this way of climbing. They know how to camp in style, joke away the hardships and motivate you toward your goals. Further, all are trained to a high-level of risk management and have the experience necessary to make the right decisions.
Wilderness Medicine Certified.
Wilderness Medicine differs significantly from standard Red Cross courses and other programs oriented toward the urban environment. A medical emergency in the mountains can quickly turn dire, as help is miles away and advanced care isn’t an option.
Our climbing guides are trained to handle emergency situations that involve prolonged patient care in severe environments with improvised equipment. They are, at least, certified to Wilderness First Responder level, while many are Wilderness Emergency Medical Technicians.
Read more about the level of certification here.
Our climbing guides are trained to handle emergency situations that involve prolonged patient care in severe environments with improvised equipment. They are, at least, certified to Wilderness First Responder level, while many are Wilderness Emergency Medical Technicians.
Read more about the level of certification here.
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Climbing Support & Equipment.
We may be a small operation, but we do not cut down on the essentials. You will find that we are more prepared than many bigger operations on the mountain.
For alpine style ascents, we only use the tried-and-true ultralight expedition tents made by Hilleberg, to withstand the extreme weather conditions that are not uncommon on Cerro Aconcagua. We issue multiples of the powerful MSR® XGK-EX stoves to ensure redundancy, reliability and speed for high altitude cooking and the chore of melting snow higher-up.
The climbing guide will carry a medical kit fully equipped to deal with medical emergencies, including medicine prescribed specifically for high-altitude mountaineering expeditions. We also use pulse oxi-meters to monitor your acclimitization and to check your O2-saturation level. If need be, the data will then be sent to our in-town physician, who are on standby for the entire duration of the expedition.
All our ascents carry satellite phones and use VHF Radios to communicate with the rangers and other expeditions while on the mountain. We also receive daily (sometimes up-to-the-minute) weather forecasts from a contracted professional meteorological service. Satellite messengers, GPS, solar panels, wireless access points, HD video cameras and avalanche transmitter beacons are just some of the other gadgets we might bring, depending on the goal of the ascent.
Should technical climbing be part of the group goal: equipment like ice-tools, helmets and harnesses are available for rent, while group gear such as rope, rock/snow/ ice protection, carbineers, slings and cordelettes are all provided by us.
For alpine style ascents, we only use the tried-and-true ultralight expedition tents made by Hilleberg, to withstand the extreme weather conditions that are not uncommon on Cerro Aconcagua. We issue multiples of the powerful MSR® XGK-EX stoves to ensure redundancy, reliability and speed for high altitude cooking and the chore of melting snow higher-up.
The climbing guide will carry a medical kit fully equipped to deal with medical emergencies, including medicine prescribed specifically for high-altitude mountaineering expeditions. We also use pulse oxi-meters to monitor your acclimitization and to check your O2-saturation level. If need be, the data will then be sent to our in-town physician, who are on standby for the entire duration of the expedition.
All our ascents carry satellite phones and use VHF Radios to communicate with the rangers and other expeditions while on the mountain. We also receive daily (sometimes up-to-the-minute) weather forecasts from a contracted professional meteorological service. Satellite messengers, GPS, solar panels, wireless access points, HD video cameras and avalanche transmitter beacons are just some of the other gadgets we might bring, depending on the goal of the ascent.
Should technical climbing be part of the group goal: equipment like ice-tools, helmets and harnesses are available for rent, while group gear such as rope, rock/snow/ ice protection, carbineers, slings and cordelettes are all provided by us.
Logistics.
We will house you in a clean and comfortable apartment with wi-fi, and provide private transfer to the trailhead and back. Real fancy for an alpine ascent!
We will be completely self-sufficient from the beginning. That means we will carry 20-days-worth of food and all our equipment on our backs. Since we are not following the same course as other expeditions, any outside logistical support would be minimal to non-existent (such mules and porters).
We will be completely self-sufficient from the beginning. That means we will carry 20-days-worth of food and all our equipment on our backs. Since we are not following the same course as other expeditions, any outside logistical support would be minimal to non-existent (such mules and porters).
Wilderness Ethics.
Many companies market their eco-friendliness and display the "Leave No Trace" logo on their websites, but otherwise practice quite differently on the mountain. We are determined to model the correct behaviour and practice on the mountain.
To begin, we will pack out all trash and leftover food with us. A sump at an obscure area away from water source and human traffic will also be created for grey-water. Solid human waste and soiled toilet papers will be individually bagged, and then placed into a double-bagged trash-bag and carried back down to basecamp with us. Only biodegradable soap will be used.
"We should start climbing mountains and stop climbing ropes... In the end, if we treat our environment with respect, we’ll demonstrate that we respect ourselves." Steve House
To begin, we will pack out all trash and leftover food with us. A sump at an obscure area away from water source and human traffic will also be created for grey-water. Solid human waste and soiled toilet papers will be individually bagged, and then placed into a double-bagged trash-bag and carried back down to basecamp with us. Only biodegradable soap will be used.
"We should start climbing mountains and stop climbing ropes... In the end, if we treat our environment with respect, we’ll demonstrate that we respect ourselves." Steve House
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Education.
"The worst thing you can do for those you love is the things they could and should do themselves." Abraham Lincoln
You will be sharing a tent with your climbing guide, and among yourselves each will be taking turns to cook and melt water. Your guide will teach you how to operate the stove, and also how to cook delicious and nutritious mountain meals. You will also be learning basic high-altitude camping and mountaineering skills, how to bombproof your tent, keep warm and dry, the efficient high-altitude "rest-steps", how to use ice-axe and crampons, basic navigation skills and more.
This is not an expedition just to get you to the summit and back. This is a mountaineering expedition that puts a lot of emphasis into the details between the trailhead and the summit, promoting your personal growth and helping to achieve your goals. We are aiming to have everyone comfortable and confident about their ability to live on and to climb the mountain by the time we leave base camp. Ultimately, we want you to move on in life with the confidence knowing that your experience, ability to adapt and skill to improvise will carry you through any environment.
Why the self-service approach? Being responsible for yourself, your basic well-being and maintaining a direct connection to your environment is an important and invaluable learning we feel is crucial to your growth as a mountaineer. A team of self-sufficient mountaineers together would therefore make a focused and fruitful expedition.
You will be sharing a tent with your climbing guide, and among yourselves each will be taking turns to cook and melt water. Your guide will teach you how to operate the stove, and also how to cook delicious and nutritious mountain meals. You will also be learning basic high-altitude camping and mountaineering skills, how to bombproof your tent, keep warm and dry, the efficient high-altitude "rest-steps", how to use ice-axe and crampons, basic navigation skills and more.
This is not an expedition just to get you to the summit and back. This is a mountaineering expedition that puts a lot of emphasis into the details between the trailhead and the summit, promoting your personal growth and helping to achieve your goals. We are aiming to have everyone comfortable and confident about their ability to live on and to climb the mountain by the time we leave base camp. Ultimately, we want you to move on in life with the confidence knowing that your experience, ability to adapt and skill to improvise will carry you through any environment.
Why the self-service approach? Being responsible for yourself, your basic well-being and maintaining a direct connection to your environment is an important and invaluable learning we feel is crucial to your growth as a mountaineer. A team of self-sufficient mountaineers together would therefore make a focused and fruitful expedition.
Food and Hydration.
Proper hydration and nutrition are keys to positive acclimatization. Do not underestimate the physiological maintenance needed for a high-altitude mountaineering expedition. It requires a lot of pre-planning; a lot of thought, much experience and good taste! While most other expensive expeditions are happy to feed their clients pre-packaged freeze-dried meals, our every meal is carefully planned to match the amount of calories needed per-person per-day, while keeping weight to the minimum. We dehydrate fresh products, carry general ingredients and many varieties of spices. We then teach our expedition members basic backcountry nutrition theory before demonstrating some menus. With some creativity and improvisation, we probably have more menu varieties on higher mountain than any other expedition, which is a potential key considering your altitude-reduced appetite and your need for calories.
Requirements.
Climbing Cerro Aconcagua alpine-style is probably the most demanding program we offer. It is a pure high-altitude alpinism experience, without being too technically difficult. A great achievement in itself, it is also a perfect stepping stone if you have your sights set on the Himalayas.
Please do not underestimate the physical difficulty or the importance of proper acclimatization for this expedition. We have to be selective about the experience and the fitness level of our climbers. A pre-signed-up interview will be conducted, and a health form has to be signed and completed by a physician.
To summarize: You've got to be: healthy and very fit. Have high tolerance for suffering and willing to push yourself physically and mentally. Basic ice axe and crampon experience required.
Please do not underestimate the physical difficulty or the importance of proper acclimatization for this expedition. We have to be selective about the experience and the fitness level of our climbers. A pre-signed-up interview will be conducted, and a health form has to be signed and completed by a physician.
To summarize: You've got to be: healthy and very fit. Have high tolerance for suffering and willing to push yourself physically and mentally. Basic ice axe and crampon experience required.
Inclusion and Exclusions.
This is an inclusive cost, and covers the following:
§ Expedition leaders / climbing guides
§ All expedition organisational requirements
§ Private land transport within Argentina ex Mendoza to trail head and back to Mendoza
§ Private apartment in Mendoza (shared occupancy), 2 nights pre-trip and 1 night post-trip.
§ All trek and expedition food ex Penitentes
§ Group Equipment: ropes, tents, stoves, cookware etc., and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit
The expedition fee does not include the following:
§ Personal clothing and equipment
§ Meals (including group dinners) and personal expenses in Mendoza
§ Climbing permit payable to the Park service in Mendoza
§ Any costs associated with an early departure from the expedition
§ Return flights to Mendoza
§ Personal travel insurance / trip cancellation insurance / medical evacuation insurance
§ Gratuities to guides and local staff
The permit fee is extra at US$750 (3,500 pesos) for Low-Season, US$950 (4,500 pesos) for Mid-Season or US$1,200 (5,700 pesos) during High-Season, payable in Mendoza prior to departing, at the Ministry of Tourism office.
High Season : From the 15 of December of every year, to the 31 of January of the following year.
Middle Season : From the 1 to the 14 of December; and, from the 1 to 20 of February every year.
Low Season : From the 15 to the 30 of November; and from the 21 of February, to the 15 of March of every year.
§ Expedition leaders / climbing guides
§ All expedition organisational requirements
§ Private land transport within Argentina ex Mendoza to trail head and back to Mendoza
§ Private apartment in Mendoza (shared occupancy), 2 nights pre-trip and 1 night post-trip.
§ All trek and expedition food ex Penitentes
§ Group Equipment: ropes, tents, stoves, cookware etc., and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit
The expedition fee does not include the following:
§ Personal clothing and equipment
§ Meals (including group dinners) and personal expenses in Mendoza
§ Climbing permit payable to the Park service in Mendoza
§ Any costs associated with an early departure from the expedition
§ Return flights to Mendoza
§ Personal travel insurance / trip cancellation insurance / medical evacuation insurance
§ Gratuities to guides and local staff
The permit fee is extra at US$750 (3,500 pesos) for Low-Season, US$950 (4,500 pesos) for Mid-Season or US$1,200 (5,700 pesos) during High-Season, payable in Mendoza prior to departing, at the Ministry of Tourism office.
High Season : From the 15 of December of every year, to the 31 of January of the following year.
Middle Season : From the 1 to the 14 of December; and, from the 1 to 20 of February every year.
Low Season : From the 15 to the 30 of November; and from the 21 of February, to the 15 of March of every year.
